Sarajevo and Mostar
Our first border crossing was a non-event. Just outside Dubrovnik we came to a check point. First you check out of 1 country then a few hundred yards later you check into the next. Passports, Covid documents and entry papers checked and then we were off!
The GPS said 233km (145mi) with a 4.5 hour drive time to Sarajevo?? Well the drive was spectacular – beautiful views of the mountains and gorges but it gave Mark a few more grey hairs. Mountains with continuous hairpin turns on single lane roads little shoulders with long drops, lots of tunnels, some a mile or more through the mountains - much of the way we had an average speed of 30km/hr. We drove through the occasional hamlet (a few homes) and shared the road with many cows, literally – no fences walking along and sometimes blocking the roads. Near the entrance of the national park, we stopped for a quick bite overlooking a mountain that looked like half dome in Yosemite.
We got in to Sarajevo mid afternoon and found our small ‘Old Town Hotel’ – an ok hotel perfectly situated in the old town, exactly where you want to be in these these very old cities. Small rooms are the tradeoff for location, location, location. Mark’s first stop out the door was for a well deserved beer (or 2) after a challenging drive!
We connected with our local tour guide, Vedran a young man about 40 to give us a picture of Sarajevo, its past, present and its sites. At the little bar next to the hotel we relaxed while he gave a fascinating description of Bosnia and Sarajevo – people, culture, politics, Tito, history, the war (he was 12-13 during the siege). He described being a boy of 13 during the 452 day siege in Sarajevo – running in the streets avoiding the snipers from the hills, seeing others killed, scrounging food//water/fuel. Going to the aid station for children in the morning with one name and the afternoon with another of someone he know had been killed. The numbers of people killed (something like 8000 in Sarajevo alone) are staggering – longest siege in history – with snipers, mortars, and bombs for 452 days – hundreds per day.
Two hours later we finally started walking! Sarajevo, and many of the old towns in this part of the world have artisan streets where craftsmen sell their wares. Copper and leather shops were plentiful, as were traditional restaurants. Coffee shops were everywhere.
Sarajevo is a town where ‘east meets west’. While Dubrovnik is mostly Catholic, Sarajevo is decidedly a mix. Probably half of the population is Muslim, another 30% is Eastern Orthodox, 15% is Catholic and a very small percent is Jewish or non-denominational. Tolerance and acceptance of differences seems real here. Supposedly Sarajevo is the only city in Europe with the four different religions within 100 meters of each other – Mosque (biggest), Orthodox church, Catholic Church, and Jewish Temple. The many mosques have calls to prayer. Some Muslim women wear head scarves, others no. Though Vedran is Muslim he still drinks.
One of the highlights for Mark was a cup traditional ‘Turkish’ coffee in old town. Ground coffee is placed in a tiny pot with water, boiled and then carefully poured into a tiny copper cup to be served with sugar. It’s a process but an enjoyable one.
We visited the town hall which is the architectural highlight of Sarajevo, mixing the Moorish influences of mosaics and arches with the Austro-Hungarian Empire sensibilities. The hall houses a emotional memorial to the Srebrenica massacre during the Bosnian war in July,1995 and the resulting trials of the perpetrators - sobering photos of the ten's of thousands raped and killed followed by a description of the trials of the perpetrators. The town hall is also historic as it is where Arch Duke Ferdinand, the Austro-Hungarian heir, visited prior to meeting his death at the corner down the street by the hand of a young local Bosnian hero Garvilo Princip who wanted freedom from the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. His assassination led to the start of World War One. After a failed assassination attempt, the Duke's driver took a wrong turn across the bridge, car doubled back, got stuck, and the Duke was shot by Princip. The spot is now a local pharmacy.
On the way out of town, we stopped at the ‘Tunnel of Hope’ a tunnel dug during the siege between the Bosnia controlled areas, under the UN controlled airport, and into Sarajevo. Tons of supplies, soldiers, fuel, electricity and ammunition was brought in each day through the 1.8 meter high by 4km tunnel to sustain the city of Sarajevo during a very difficult time.
Off to Mostar!
Mostar
Mostar is a small town located in central Bosnia halfway between Sarajevo and the Croatian coast. Again there was a lot of mountainous driving broken up by a beautiful lake in a gorge between two mountain ranges. Many tunnels and more cows but no more grey hairs despite the one section of road that was only 1 car width wide for 45 minutes. Fortunately we were the only ones - no one else was crazy enough to take the 'scenic route'.
The most significant thing about Mostar is its famous Stari Most bridge and its bridge jumpers. The original limestone bridge built by Suleiman the Magnificent in 1557 to connect the two parts of the old town. It stood for 427 years until it was destroyed in 1993 during the Croat-Bosnian War.
The bridge was rebuilt using much of the original material as possible in 2004.
Nonetheless, it is a spectacular spot for photographers, especially at night. Betsey couldn’t resist. Mark helped her situate on a rock in the river for ‘the shot’ capturing the blue hour light as well as the bridge, river, and mosque. Her Sherpa excelled, managing the tripod and scouting for the best spots (as well as dinner locations). We another traditional dinner overlooking the bridge from a nice restaurant.
The next morning, more bridge shots and a chance to walk the town with no one around. Our local guide Mihail, related his family history and a bit about the politics of Mostar – he seemed to know everyone. The Stari Most Bridge is notable for its divers. They dive (or jump). The river below is fed by mountain streams and is very cold (50˚F) even in the middle of summer. Here local divers will dive (most jump) for the tourists 130 ft to the water below once they collect $50 euros. Many dives in the summer but into the fall, fewer tourists and less diving. By lunchtime, a diver appeared in a speedo. Money collected, people cheered and off he went into the water.
Craftsmen here do a lot of metal work. Copper plates, brass and bronze art available at many of the local shops. Interesting though, they also make momentos out of the spent ammunition from the war. Note the picture with the stamped shell casings.
Off to Bled, Slovenia!
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