Guilin – Rain, Rice Terraces, and Rivers That Shaped a Civilization
After several memorable days in Chengdu, we boarded one of China's remarkable high-speed trains bound for Guilin. The journey itself became one of the highlights of our visit.
Within minutes, the sprawling city gave way to broad valleys carpeted with lush green rice paddies. One thing quickly became apparent: farms are everywhere. Every patch of ground—level or not—seems to be cultivated. Tea plantations climbed the hillsides while forests and villages filled the valleys. If a piece of land could be farmed, someone was farming it. As we traveled farther south, the terrain became increasingly rugged, with deep valleys and the occasional dramatic gorge.
We arrived in Guilin in the middle of a downpour. With nearly 200 days of rain each year, it's no wonder the mountains and rice terraces are such a vibrant green. Fortunately, by the time we headed to Longji the next morning, the rain had stopped, and we were rewarded with comfortable temperatures and a dry day for exploring the mountains.
Of course, no visit to Guilin would be complete without sampling the local cuisine. Guilin rice noodles are famous throughout China, and after trying several bowls we understood why. The local cuisine also features plenty of spicy and fermented dishes, quite different from what we had experienced farther north.
During the drive, our guide gave us a fascinating glimpse into modern China. We arrived during the annual Gaokao, China's national university entrance examination. Students spend years preparing for the exam, and the results largely determine their university opportunities. He also described the demanding "9-9-6" work culture—9 a.m. to 9 p.m., six days a week—which helped us better understand the discipline and work ethic that have fueled China's rapid development.
The highlight of our stay was visiting the Longji Rice Terraces, commonly known as the Dragon's Back. Stretching from the rivers below to the mountaintops above, the thousands of terraced fields resemble the scales of a Chinese loong dragon, while the winding ridgeline forms its backbone.
The drive climbed narrow, winding roads until the terraces finally came into view.
Although we had expected brilliant green rice fields, the planting season had only just begun. The stone-and-mud terrace walls were fully exposed, allowing us to appreciate the intricate engineering behind the terraces before the rice transformed the mountainsides into a sea of green.
Rainwater and mountain springs collect in reservoirs high on the slopes before flowing from terrace to terrace by gravity, irrigating every field below. It is a beautifully simple system that has worked for centuries. Rice is planted in June and harvested in October, while tea, passion fruit, and camellia trees share the surrounding hillsides.
We were also introduced to Oil Tea, a traditional dish of the Yao people, one of the ethnic groups that call this region home. A little old lady, dressed in a colorful pink traditional outfit, welcomed us and prepared it over a small gas burner while sitting on a tiny stool.
She first fried rice until it puffed up like Rice Krispies, then set it aside. Next she stir-fried black tea leaves with garlic, bamboo shoots, and local herbs before pounding the mixture with a heavy wooden mallet right in the wok. We each took turns helping, but it quickly became obvious who the expert was.
Finally, she added hot water and stirred the puffed rice back into the mixture. Served in a bowl with a spoon, it wasn't really tea at all but a savory broth unlike anything we'd ever tasted. It certainly wasn't the afternoon tea we expected, but trying local traditions like this is one of the joys of travel.
Our time in Guilin wouldn't have been complete without cruising the Li River. Drifting between the towering limestone karst peaks, it was easy to understand why the river has inspired Chinese artists for centuries. One especially iconic stretch is depicted on China's 20-yuan banknote, and seeing it in person made us appreciate just how faithfully the artwork captures the landscape.
One evening we attended Impression Sanjie Liu, a spectacular outdoor performance staged on the Li River with Guilin's dramatic karst mountains serving as the backdrop. After several rainy days, we were rewarded with a beautiful sunset that bathed the mountains in warm evening light before darkness settled over the river.
The production features more than 600 performers, many of whom are local farmers, fishermen, and children from nearby villages. Although we didn't follow every detail of the story, the music, lighting, colorful costumes, and synchronized choreography were spectacular. Combined with the stunning natural setting, it became one of the most memorable performances of our trip.
As we left the theater that evening, it struck us how beautifully Guilin and Huangshan blend nature, history, and culture. Towering mountains, centuries-old villages, ingenious rice terraces, and traditions still practiced today all come together to create landscapes that are as much the work of people as of nature. The mountains were shaped by nature, while the fields were patiently shaped by tens of generations of farmers working in harmony with the land.
Huangshan – Into the Mist
After the dramatic scenery of Guilin, we boarded another high-speed train, this time bound for the Huangshan region. The train slipped into one tunnel after another before emerging briefly into daylight, a reminder of the extraordinary engineering that has connected even China's most mountainous regions.
One thing Adam, our guide, explained surprised us. Unlike in the United States, individuals generally do not own the land beneath their homes or farms outright. Instead, land is owned by the state or by rural village collectives, with people holding long-term land-use rights. It also helped explain how China has been able to build an extraordinary network of highways, rail lines, bridges, and tunnels across such rugged terrain.
As the drizzle continued, Adam introduced us to a region where old and new China exist side by side. The modern city of Huangshan is only about 40 years old, while nearby villages have been continuously inhabited for more than 2,400 years.
Our first stop was the UNESCO-listed village of Hongcun. Established in 1131 by a general as both his family home and the center of a new settlement, it grew over the centuries as later generations prospered as merchants and expanded both the village and its magnificent homes.
Walking through its narrow stone lanes felt like stepping back in time. Built of brick, wood, and stone, the houses are instantly recognizable by their whitewashed walls and dark tiled roofs, symbolizing the balance of yin and yang. Intricate carvings decorate stone doorways, wooden beams, window frames, and interior panels, reflecting the wealth and craftsmanship of the merchant families who once lived here.
Unlike many historic villages, Hongcun is still a living community. Many of its centuries-old homes remain occupied, and families continue their daily routines while visitors wander the same narrow lanes their ancestors walked hundreds of years ago. It was easy to understand why scenes from Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon were filmed here. The village feels as though it exists outside of time.
The surrounding countryside is famous for its tea. We sampled several varieties, including chrysanthemum tea, traditionally believed to benefit eye health. Whether or not those claims are true, it was a refreshing break during our day of exploring.
The highlight of our visit was the legendary Yellow Mountain (Huangshan), another UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of China's most celebrated natural landscapes.
Steady rain greeted us at the mountain, but we were prepared with our bright yellow rain suits before boarding the gondola for the ride to the summit. From there, we faced a two-mile hike that first descended into the valley before climbing many hundreds of stone steps to our lodge for the night.
The gondola climbed steadily into the clouds until the valley disappeared below us. Water streamed down the ancient stone pathways while mist drifted through the famous wind-shaped Huangshan pines, alternately revealing and concealing the towering granite peaks. Visibility was often limited to just 100 to 200 feet, giving the mountain an almost mystical atmosphere.
For Betsey, the hike was especially challenging. She had been out of the hospital for only a week and still wasn't breathing with a full set of lungs - probably not the best idea but oh well! Progress was slow, but with the help of trekking poles—and plenty of determination—she made it all the way to the overnight lodge at 5,350 feet.
The lodge itself was nothing fancy, but after hours in the rain we were incredibly grateful for its heated boot dryers, a heater and drying racks. The next morning we were thankful to pull on dry boots and clothes before heading back onto the trail.
Unfortunately, the spectacular views Huangshan is famous for remained hidden behind the mist. It rained throughout our climb and even harder on the descent the following day. By the time we reached the bottom, the winds had become so strong that hiking on the upper mountain was suspended, along with the gondola service. We realized just how fortunate we had been to complete the journey.
Looking back, we hardly remember what we couldn't see. We remember making it to the top together. Huangshan may have hidden its famous views from us, but it gave us something just as memorable—a mountain wrapped in mist, rain, and quiet determination that we'll never forget.
Together, Guilin and Huangshan became two of the most memorable and beautiful regions we visited in China.
